Upper Town on the hill, Lower Town below, café culture in between.
Zagreb is Croatia's inland capital — Habsburg-Austrian in scale and food culture, with an Upper Town (Gornji Grad) on a hill and a Lower Town (Donji Grad) of grand squares and museums below. It's the country's only city that doesn't sell itself on the coast, and that's the point — visit for the strong café culture, the unusual Museum of Broken Relationships, and a slower urban rhythm before or after the Dalmatian coast.




